Ghost Dance is a Vedauwoo area classic, combining a striking line with difficult and sustained climbing. GD is located left of the Friday the 13th alcove, on the SE side of the Nautilus; look for the left of three prominent L-diagonal cracks before the alcove (the middle one, New Mutants, has a visible chain anchor at 60 feet), behind some aspen trees. From a block get yourself established in the crack. Struggle with the gear (an RP can be helpful) just as the "jams" become flared, karate-chop insecurities. A couple of difficult moves leads to wider, more positive jams, which in turn lead to wider struggling above. The upper crack is sustained, and succumbs to the usual Vedauwooesque thrashing. A long pitch. Descend by heading west (climber's left), following the line of least resistance to easy down climbing. Tape can be helpful in the shallow technical jams. A really fine route: do it!
Protection
A few wired nuts, including an RP or two, up to a 4 Camalot. You can gauge how many of each size you want by looking at the crack from below, but probably gear in the 2" to 4" range should be emphasized.
I also thought this really good pitch. It is a cool mix of technical and physical with a side of holy shit! I had the typical good luck of getting to lead the last 2/3 of the route in a light rain(not recommened). The pro at the bottom is better tahn you expect. Bon Voyage! TF
I just did this route yesterday (8-29) and must say that I thoroughly enjoyed it. I personally found it to be fairly difficult for its grade. I can name quite a few solid .11s at Vedauwoo and other places that are significantly easier. If you are good at offwidths, then don't worry about bringing big gear for the final offwidth section. You can get good gear right before it and it is a very secure section. Go get on it!
I need to flip-flop on my last comment. It is right on at Vedauwoo for .11b ish. Some recent spank sessions on some other ".11b" routes at the Voo have shown me the error of my ways. If you haven't done this route, you don't know what you've been missing.
A #4 Friend works well in the one obvious spot in the beginning. #4 Camalot will work deep at the beginning of the offwidth at the top. One of my favorite routes at Vedauwoo.
Nautilus
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