BETA PHOTO: #1. Right Parallel Space #2. Left Torp...
Description
The Left Tube is about as impossible-looking as 5.10 can get. While it is a bit of a struggle for those without the requisite mental deficiencies required of the genre, this exercise in wide crack climbing is worthy of your attention. With that said, feel free to just walk past it and continue on to Grand Traverse or Captain Nemo for some fun climbing...
Located on the far side of the Nautilus from the parking lot, this climb is the left of the two end cracks, an obvious, flared, bottomless monstrosity rising above the cute little subalpine wildflowers.
The beta: set good gear, believe in yourself, and go for it. Focus on knee-heel bars with the right leg (I climb it left side in) to overcome the bulge; above that the climbing eases, though many will find it strenuous to the top. Look around for anchors on top, they are not obvious. To descend climb boulders up to the climbers left to get to the anchors atop Middle Parallel Space- one rope off.
I would recommend against wearing shorts and a t-shirt on this one. I would also recommend against staring at this for too long before roping up and climbing it.
Protection
Larger pieces. Include a #4 Camalot. Long slings (one placement is deep in there before the crack pinches). Right kneepad. Tape. High top climbing shoes. Additional body armor is optional. On wide cracks I prefer a 2-inch swami to a complete harness, since it doesn't get caught so easily- just use a long sling for leg loops on the rap off.
Got on this crazy thing not too long ago. It was my first "real" offwidth lead. And i must say that it is way fun. cool tricks can be employed on the lower half while the crux and long fatty above are pretty much the real deal. not the horror show I expected, (wanted?). enjoy
A #3 Big Bro protects the crux perfectly. There is a long runout on the upper half of this and the Right Torpedo, although it is easier climbing on both. I could not find the anchors up top. Any hints?
Annotations were supposed to appear with the Beta Photo above, and probably will. Prior to that, #1=start to Right Parallel Space and Vulture; #2=Left Torpedo Tube; #3=Right Torpedo Tube; #4=Gravity's Rainbow. And yes, there are fixed anchors/raps off the top (see Beta Photo). 2 raps (usually called the Middle Parallel Space raps) will get you to the ground in the best style.
By BrettPierce From: Colorado Springs May 20, 2007
I would bring two #5 and #6 Camalots.
I was able to face climb this to a great degree and avoid most of the true off-width moves.
The bolts for the left tube have been removed so you will need to set up an anchor at the top in a big crack (probably 3 to 4 Camalots). The anchor bolts on the right tube are still there for rapping back down.
Nautilus
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