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Finally 

5.9

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 743 page views

Submitted By: Ben Faber on Jun 1, 2001


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Here is Rob, laying it back.


Description 

This route is located on the far right side of the Nautilus as you view it from the parking lot. It is a wide right-facing dihedral. To access it scramble up to the ledge at its base. The crack in this dihedral is fat. Suck it up, use some technique and/or lay it back in sections and go. I wish I could give a more vivid description of this generic looking dihedral. I'll just say that it held my attention from start to finish. I jammed, stemmed and did some laybacking.As far as fatties go, this is a good sampler.


Protection 

I did this route with nothing more than 1 #4 Camalot. I wish that I had brought my #5 and #6 Friends also. There are 2 adjacent cracks, where you can sometimes place smaller gear. Upon finishing this climb, establish a gear belay in a scoop at the top. To descend, locate the nearby rap anchor on the back side of this section of the Nautilus and head for the ledge below. Bring a light standard rack, and go heavy on the big stuff.



Add Photo Photos of Finally
Unknown climber rappeling off the Parabolic Slab. 'Finally' is visible as the obvious dihedral on the top right hand block.

Unknown climber rappeling off the Parabolic Slab. ...

I think I can, I think I can...

I think I can, I think I can...

Bozek - lifting off! <br />One of the few, the proud, the only, tri-cam'er left in the wild wild west: <br /><br />"What do I need those springy things for, they just add weight?"<br /><br />(he did use a #4 Camalot on this one, though.) If you haven't climbed with Bozek; you have not really experienced the full gamut of climbing.

Bozek - lifting off!
One of the few, the proud, t...


Katherine Chumacero likin' the end of the day warm-down.

Katherine Chumacero likin' the end of the day warm...


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By Joe Lee
From: Mesa, Arizona
Oct 16, 2001

Beautiful line that strikes you immediately when you see it from the parking lot. Great climb too. Bring big and small gear. There are goodies inside this wide crack to protect you. joe lee.

By nolteboy
Apr 20, 2005

This great route doesn't require any pure offwidth technique. Smallish gear can be placed in a straight-in thin crack that ends where the route kicks right- at that point you'll definitely want one or two large (#4 Camalot size) pieces for the wide crack. Hand sizes for the belay.

By Rob Dillon
From: Leadville, CO
Aug 15, 2005

If you have a #5 Camalot, you won't regret bringing it.

1 each stoppers & cams, and maybe 2 #4 Camalots if you got 'em. As mentioned, there's some supplementary gear in thin cracks that allows you to hang on to the precious fat stuff.

Save some 3-4" gear for an easy top anchor.

By Mark Nelson
From: Coniferous, CO
Jan 20, 2006
rating: 5.9

This short .9 is a sustained bastard child! Found the use of 2 each #5 Tech Friends helpful, and small gear is useful also. Also, not so obvious, this route finishes with a steep mind-fk handcrack. Good & fun route.

Walk up to bolt station and rap.

By Brian Story
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.9

This is a great route and a striking line. I found placing small gear in the incipient crack lower down to be tricky but manageable. I agree that a #5 Camalot or equivalent is usefull but not required after the crack jags right. I recommend belaying off the bolt anchor on top instead of building an anchor. I found liebacking usefull at times.