Vanessa Cassat working on this classic roof crack.
Description
Probably Vedauwoo's most well-known and classic roof crack boulder problem. Crawl deep into the cave, all the way to the very first hand jam about twenty feet back, and jam out to and over the lip encountering a tricky pod or two along the way. To top out, follow the crack to the top (recommended but a bit of a pain to get down) or traverse left or jump down after the lip. A cool extention starts all the way in the back of the roof where the crack is a gaping chimney, and climbs all the way out.
Location
This is the fissure that splits the main rock formation in two. It faces to the south, toward I-80.
Protection
A pad or two. Most of the roof is too low for a pad, but you might want one at the lip.
Ungodly difficult getting through those pods. Great problem - any advice on techniques for the offwidth pods? I never did figure it out.
The rating is consistent with the crack/boulder ratings in Vedauwoo, but this problem is definitely harder than a typical V5 you find in a Front Range climbing gym!
You have to switch directions several times to get through the pods. That is, you have to lead into certain pods with your feet, as opposed to your hands, then score heel-toe jams and swing your body over so you can get to the next good hand jam. But that's only for one pod. The rest you should be able to reach past. Unless you're like three feet tall. This thing is surprisingly sequential for what it is.
Just reach between the good jams, no need for leading with feet, bat hanging, or anything else unusual. Crux is turning the lip. Stout for the guidebook rating (.11a) and in an area with other nice problems. Great, great problem.
Nat's Three Star Roof
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