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Nick's Loose Flake Variation 

5.7

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 240 page views

Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Aug 4, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Nick's Loose Flake - Ila on top 2/3 of climb. Hand...


Description 

This is a worthwhile alternative to the second pitch of Le Petit Arbre. Take the first pitch of that route to the giant ledge. Scoot the belay over about 20' to a nice hand size crack with a large flake just to the left of that crack. Ascend either the crack itself (for the full valued 7) or use the flake on the upper portion (probably somewhere at 6) to a set of bolted anchors. Both of worthwhile, but utilizing only the hand crack is definitely the more aesthetic way of ascending the route.


Location 

This route is located on the ledge that marks the start to the second pitch of Le Petit Arbre, just 20' to the left of the finish of Le Petit Arbre.


Protection 

Several hand-sized pieces. Bolted anchors are there for rapping.



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By Patrick Machacek
Sep 21, 2009

I was just up there yesterday (9/20/09) and both of the bolts at the top seemed a little loose. Just a heads up to plan on setting an anchor when you get to the top.