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Lower Blair III, II and I
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Knockin' on Heaven's Door 

5.11-

   

FA: Pablo Kollmar
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 267 page views

Submitted By: Pablo Kollmar on May 9, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Knockin' on Heaven's Door is the thin crack in the...


Description 

Begin by climbing up the easy handcrack to the right of the route, being sure to look for the vertebra wedged in the crack. Traverse left at the horizontal, and place gear (#1 Camalot sized). Then, climb into the main crack, which is mostly flared hands. The crux comes just before the slight bulge in the middle of the route. Sustained, flared hands until the very top, where you pull over the lip. Build a gear anchor, and walk off to climber's right.


Location 

From the Lower Blair parking lot drive West for just over 0.3 miles until the road takes a sharp turn to the left. Stop here, there should be an old road going off to the East. Follow this closed road and head right and uphill until you find the formation. Knockin' on Heaven's Door is the prominent, thin crack. There is also a bolted route about 100 feet to the left.


Protection 

#0.75 or #1 Camalot for the horizontal (may want to put a sling on this piece). Then mostly green/yellow Alien sized pieces for the rest of the crack. It really is flared hands though, but the best gear comes from small gear in the back. #0.5 - #2 Camalot-sized pieces for the belay.



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By Pablo Kollmar
From: Laramie, WY
May 9, 2008

Does anyone know the history on this route? When we climbed it there was a lot of lichen on it, and quite a bit of debris in the crack. It didn't look like it had been climbed in a while, if ever.

If you know the FA, or the real name please let me know.

Pablo

By adamgable
From: Laramie, WY
May 10, 2008

Is this near behind Blue Eyes? It looks like a route I did over by that but a couple formations to the right if you are staring at behind Blue Eyes. From your description, I can't really tell. If it isn't though, go wander around over there by behind Blue Eyes. There are a couple of decent lines. The route we did was maybe 10 + and had a possible direct star on crimps and slopers to the horizontal.

By Pablo Kollmar
From: Laramie, WY
May 10, 2008

Nope, not really near behind Blue Eyes. This thing is probably about 600 feet from the road (the big road that the picnic ground is on). I'll try to figure out some better directions. Thanks.

Pablo