Climb fingers to an offwidth pod, then to good hands. Reach a ledge and climb 10 feet up a left-facing dihedral to the anchor. Enjoyable climb. Medium Cool starts on the same ledge as Goodbye White Opel and Solo for Swallows, be careful on the ledge, and the belayer should probably anchor in. Kip Spence is the father of famous trial laywer Gerry Spence.
Location
Between Goodbye White Opel and Solo for Swallows. Take the trail from the blair parking lot around to the Northwest side of Blair II. Climb up the gully from the notch between Blair II and the Vulture (3/4th) to reach the ledge. Medium Cool is the middle climb on this ledge, going straight up with an obvious pod about 15 feet up.
Protection
1 set of stoppers, Cams from finger size (green Alien/#0.3 Camalot) to #3 Camalot. Doubles in hand size pieces. You could take a #6 for the pod, but it would make the climbing more difficult, better just to place below and above the pod. The top of the climb has poor quality rock, but easy climbing. Save one #3 Camalot or equivalent for this section. Belayer should build an anchor with hand-size pieces in the horizontal or small stoppers/cams in the crack.
This thing is a classic, one of the best 10's in Vedauwoo. This has a breif crux so if you are not consolidated on the 10 grade this is a good one to go do. The crux even has a really clean fall.
Thanks for adding this route Pablo. A classic for sure with a distinct crux where the thin crack peters out in the OW pod. Continue to the top where you'll find two new rap rings.
This route, as well as Goodbye White Opel, calls to any climbers in the area. To paraphrase Chouinard, one should not stare at too good a crack for too long a time. Get on it!
Classic indeed. I am new to crack climbing and must say the OW pod included a really interesting chicken wing jam. The rap anchors require an 8 foot down climb down to roof. Climbers left of the top out
There is no downclimb needed to get to the rap anchors, you must have stopped climbing too early. At the big ledge continue up the left-facing dihedral for about ten feet of easy climbing to the top of the formation where you will find a set of rap rings.
Lower Blair III, II and I
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