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Lower Blair III, II and I
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Penetration 

5.9+

   

FA: Mark Jenkins, Zach Orenczak, 2003
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 201 page views

Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 26, 2007


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Description 

I'm not sure why I got on this route, maybe because my partner backed off of it, so I felt obligated. Anyway this short, flaring offwidth felt quite difficult for the given grade. Maybe it was because of the strenuous start getting into the offwidth or maybe it was the crappy rock which was continually raining down as I struggled to the anchor. Either way, this route starts at a water-streaked face that turns into an offwidth after about 6'. The initial moves getting into the offwidth are the crux and are very awkward.


Location 

This is the left-most, wide crack on the northeast prow of Blair III. The start is identified by a dark, water streak coming from the offwidth above.


Protection 

This route takes #1 or #2 to #5 Camalots from what I recall. The smaller sizes are for the start. There is an anchor at the top but I don't think it was bolts.



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By Brian Story
May 21, 2007

This is a good offwidth. Maybe hard for the grade? Rock quality is bad as of May '07, but should improve with traffic. Gear up to 1 or 2 #5 Camalots.

By tom Jensen
Aug 26, 2007

As offwidths go, this is what you're looking for. Great training for the harder grades due to the consistency. Definitely hard, but then 9+ is ALWAYS hard at Vedauwoo. Sustained. I felt the bottom was easy compared to the thrutching that follows. The rock quality at the bottom is garbage but don't let that turn you away. Rock above is not well traveled so wear a long sleeve shirt for sure! A proud little grunt fest. I found smaller gear in the back (#1, 2, 3 Camalots) to be ideal pro so you could do it safely without a Vedauwoo rack. There ARE rap anchors at the top, but extend them a lot if you are going to toprope as the rope gets stuck in the chockstones at the top otherwise.

By Tom Tresslar
Jun 15, 2008

The comments on rock quality and the sustained nature of this route are spot on. This thing left me bruised and beaten. I trundled several loose rocks from the very top section. The large and somewhat secure chockstones at the exit are still pretty solid. I also needed bigger gear (#4 and #5 Camalot) because the back of the crack was very hard for me to reach.