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Lower Blair III, II and I
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Crack Named Sue 

5.11 V2

   

FA: Some Local ?Jammer? ?Davin Bagdonas?
Type: Trad, Boulder
Consensus: 5.11 V2 [details]
Length: 20 feet
Views: 970 page views

Submitted By: jammer on Sep 27, 2006


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Pam on Crack Named Sue. Much funner if you leavit...


Description 

This is a beautiful overhanging right leaning splitter. You can go deep for fists, but the funner way to do this problem is to leavitate the outside of the crack until it closes down enough to easily get fists/big hands. In either case start on your bum. Once you rock all the way around the corner top out the easy slab to the apex of the boulder. A lower, logical, and very recommended start, put up by Pamela Shanti Pack, starts on the bottom of the backside of the boulder. Start on two hands by the little tree and then work your way down around the corner and then back up. Bizzarre and beautiful. The name was inspired by the Shel Silverstien song "Boy Named Sue".


Location 

The best way to get to this problem is to take the trail that runs along and to the north of the three Blairs. After the trail bends right (south) and goes down hill, keep looking to the right to see this distinctive boulder about a hundred yards off the trail.


Protection 

A couple of pads are nice because you will be upside down for a good ways and it's not super short.



Add Photo Photos of Crack Named Sue
This is a photo shot from the trail.  Crack Named Sue is on the cracked boulder in the middle of the photo, and is in fact the other side of the crack you see.

BETA PHOTO: This is a photo shot from the trail. Crack Named ...

Here is another shot, taken by one of Pams partners.  This shows how steep this thing is.

Here is another shot, taken by one of Pams partner...

Pam on her low start.  This start provides some more interesting and fun moves to the problem.

Pam on her low start. This start provides some mo...


Add Comment Comments on Crack Named Sue
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By Davin Bagdonas
Jun 2, 2007

FA: Davin Bagdonas
Shown by Bob Scarpelli years ago

By jammer
Jun 4, 2007

Actually, I believe I had done this crack before Bob had shown it to you. I remember you telling me about it, and I had done it the fall before. I know I GPS'd this for the guide. Bob told you it was undone, but I guess he hadn't checked with me to see if I had gone back and done it. He had shown it to me one day and I tried it by leavitating instead of fist jamming, and my ankle hurt for weeks afterward because I got my foot really stuck, hence the name. I went back a month or two later and did it with Jeff Wendt spotting. If my memory serves me well, you said you fist jammed the whole thing.

By Davin Bagdonas
Jun 4, 2007

I did fist the thing. Don't know about timing, sounds like you got it. So long ago. nice crack!

By jammer
Jun 4, 2007

FA: Some Local? Jammer? Davin Bagdonas?

Oh, the unanswered mystery. lol.