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Lower Blair III, II and I
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Unremembered 

Crack Named Sue 

5.11+ V3

   

FA: Justin Edl and Jeff Wendt, 2003
Type: Trad, Boulder
Consensus: 5.11+ V3 [details]
Length: 20 feet
Views: 1,492 page views

Submitted By: jammer on Sep 27, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Pam on Crack Named Sue. Much funner if you leavit...


Description 

This is a beautiful overhanging right leaning splitter. The crack is really tight knee size at the lip, and flares in quickly enough that those with big fists may find the route easier. You can also pull on the bottom edge like a rail or stack. You can do it right side up, but upsidedown seems to work a lot better. Once you rock all the way around the corner top out the easy slab to the apex of the boulder. A lower, logical, and very recommended start, put up by Pamela Shanti Pack, starts on the bottom of the backside of the boulder. Start on two hands by the little tree and then work your way down around the corner and then back up. Bizzarre and beautiful. The name was inspired by the Shel Silverstien song "Boy Named Sue". The rating is 5.11/V2 if you do the original start, and 11+/V3 from Pams start. Highly recommended.


Location 

The best way to get to this problem is to take the trail that runs along and to the north of the three Blairs. After the trail bends right (south) and goes down hill, keep looking to the right to see this distinctive boulder about a hundred yards off the trail.


Protection 

A couple of pads are nice because you will be upside down for a good ways and it's not super short.



Photos of Crack Named Sue Slideshow Add Photo
This is a photo shot from the trail.  Crack Named Sue is on the cracked boulder in the middle of the photo, and is in fact the other side of the crack you see.

BETA PHOTO: This is a photo shot from the trail. Crack Named ...

Here is another shot, taken by one of Pams partners.  This shows how steep this thing is.

Here is another shot, taken by one of Pams partner...

Pam on her low start.  This start provides some more interesting and fun moves to the problem.

Pam on her low start. This start provides some mo...


Comments on Crack Named Sue Add Comment
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By Davin Bagdonas
Jun 2, 2007

FA: Davin Bagdonas
Shown by Bob Scarpelli years ago

By jammer
Jun 4, 2007

Actually, I believe I had done this crack before Bob had shown it to you. I remember you telling me about it, and I had done it the fall before. I know I GPS'd this for the guide. Bob told you it was undone, but I guess he hadn't checked with me to see if I had gone back and done it. He had shown it to me one day and I tried it by leavitating instead of fist jamming, and my ankle hurt for weeks afterward because I got my foot really stuck, hence the name. I went back a month or two later and did it with Jeff Wendt spotting. If my memory serves me well, you said you fist jammed the whole thing.

By Davin Bagdonas
Jun 4, 2007

I did fist the thing. Don't know about timing, sounds like you got it. So long ago. nice crack!