Moonrise Variation 

FA:  Steve Matous, Scott Heywood Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 353 page views Submitted By: Jeff Giddings on Jun 18, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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The Skipper in action. Photo by Skip Harper

Description 

This route is a Vedauwoo Classic! All sizes of crack climbing to a technical and hair-raising face climbing finish. Starts Fists then widens to offwidth just before a nice hands to thin hands splitter shoots straight up the imposing "headwall". Start on the route Moontide with the fist and offwidth crack. When the wide crack turns horizontal start up the vertical hand to thin hand crack that shoots straight up the wall, this is The Moonrise Variation. Moontinde continues along the wide crack as it turns horizontal and finishes on an obvious offwidth, thereby avoiding the beautiful splitter and face finish of Moonrise. Moontide is easier but not as aesthetic (5.10a).

Location 

Just down and Left from Straight and Narrow. Very obvious wide crack that arcs to the right with the thin hands splitter of Moonrise branching off and going directly up to the anchors.

Protection 

1 of each; yellow TCU, Orange TCU or #0.5 Camalot, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot and #2 Camalot. 2 or 3 #3 Camalots, 1 new #4 Camalot, 1 new #5 Camalot. The yellow and orange TCUs offer bomber pro just before the face finish. Brand new, stainless anchors with chains on top.

Add Photo Photos of Moonrise Variation

Arjun Dongre seconding Moontide, with the Valley M...