Rowdy Joe Bad 

FA:  ?[Bob Scarpelli] Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 176 page views Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jul 19, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This short, deceptive slab is located immediately to the right of Get up that Tree.

One of our party jumped on this climb (which is not listed in Heel & Toe) thinking it was going to be an easy 5.8 or 5.9 romp up the slab. Not to be.

The climbing is easy up to the 2nd bolt, where a sequence of very difficult slab and edging moves marks the crux. The hardest move uses a sharp pinch flake that is not long for this world. This climb could warrant an 'S' rating for the 5.9/10 mantle that comes at the end of the crux sequence getting to the 3rd bolt... blowing it here could result in a hard fall onto the lower angled part of the slab below.

We thought this climb was at least 11a, and probably more like 11b.

Protection 

3 bolts to a two bolt anchor