This gem isn't in the Heel and Toe guidebook, but I found the name and rating on a website somewhere, so it must be true.
Just right of Sore-O-Pod is a line of bolts that angles left up a slab. The first move is a gymnastic roof move off the deck. After that, climb 50 or so feet of nice 5.9 and easy 10 slab. A hard move just after the last bolt is by far and away the crux - awfully hard for 5.10. After pulling the crux, move left along the ledge and finish on Sore-O-Pod.
Great rock, great protection, and fun climbing make for a rare Vedauwoo sport route.
Protection
Draws, a few pieces of small to medium gear for the easu last 10 feet and the anchor.
I didn't see a move up from the last bolt, so went left into the Sore-a-pod crack and finished with a couple of good hand jam moves. This variation puts the route at 10a and makes for a very pleasant moderate climb. We belayed from a long rope anchor we'd set up for top-roping 1st Iteration, which meant that the belayer could take good photos of the climb. The start is a challenge for shorter people.
The only way to keep this in the 10 range is to move left and finish up Sore-a-pod. I managed after, several hangs, to forge it straight up the final headwall without using any of the crack to keep it "clean"and repeated it for the redpoint but it's way hard that way, don't even want to venture a guess at a grade, at least 11d or better.
Great climb, dyno start to great face climbing. The crux is the finish, 10c/d, but no harder than that. The last move I dyno'ed to the sloping face (I shredded a sweatshirt a bit). Not a bad climb, pretty new too! Be careful if you set a TR for the pendulum effect.
Contrived last move - the crux bolt is half an armspan from a bomber hand crack on a well established natural line. Such bolting should be avoided in the future.
Jurassic Park
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