Married On Morphine 

FA:  Pete Takeda and Jen Hanft New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12- [details] Length:  1 pitch, 75 feet Views: 157 page views Submitted By: P Takeda on Jul 17, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Married on Morphine.

Description 

Thin crux seam for first 20 feet with flared hand, tips. and edges lead to hand jam and good horizontal. Above is a hard fist/ow bulge leading to squeeze and finally a fixed belay. The route is lichen crusted down low--should clean up well--might get easier.

Location 

Married On Morphine takes a slightly left leaning seam and fist/ow crack on the right side of John's Wall--maybe 200 feet roughly west (climber's right) of Burning Man.

On the approach, go right after crossing the fence. See picture.

Protection 

One key fixed micro-wired. A #00 cam, some RPs and a #2 Camalot for down low. Hand/fist sized gear for the upper crack. Two #4 Camalots are nice for the upper bit.