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|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.7+ [details]|
|FA: ||Rachel Badgett, William Badgett, Ben Boykin, Rob Kelman, 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||rob.calm on Nov 19, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: Rob at the alternate first belay stance.
Start in the wide slot about 5 yards right of “Wright of Thick and Thin”. We did it in 4 pitches, but 3 pitches is fine. Climb the moderate handcrack on the left side of the slot and after about 50 feet move right to a ledge (alternate belay stance). Continue up using handcracks on the left side of the slot for about another 20 feet and belay on a ledge. Climb the chimney looming above, which, after about 30 feet, joins “Wright of Thick and Thin”. Belay on the large ledge at the end of the chimney. Walk straight ahead, set up a belay, and finish on a 30-foot crack in a left-facing dihedral corner. Rappel the northwest side of Holdout using the bolts above Beefeater. This is a fun route that climbs much better than it looks. The name refers to a malady suffered by one of the first ascensionists on the 2nd pitch caused by the in utero William. The route would be improved by some gardening of the last pitch.
This is on the Southeast side of Holdout to the right of "Wright of Thick and Thin".
Standard rack through #4 Camalot. Small gear for cracks in the sidewalls.
Ben starting the 2nd pitch. Classic Vedauwoo pose.
Rachel on the last pitch.
Rob starting last part of 1st section.
BETA PHOTO: More beta.
Rob at the Vomitorium, pitch #2.
Rachel (& William) on the Beefeater rappel.