A nice route below and slightly left of the plum line below Currey's anchors. Follows a traversing thin crack left, before a mantle move above to reach the first of two bolts. Balancy moves reach the final dihedral. Place secure small wires before blasting through the thin moves of the crux. A unprotected face TR variation (12a) climbs up a thin dihedral off the crescent moon flake at the base directly into the line.
Protection
This mixed route requires mostly small gear, small nuts, cams and clips two bolts. Shares anchor with Currey's Diagonal. The pin mentioned in the guide for the initial traverse is not present, although protection is manageable (TCUs and nuts).
Just did this route this weekend and thought it was really enjoyable. There are actually three bolts that you clip and here is all you will need for pro. 1 yellow Alien, 1 red Alien and 1blue Metolius TCU. You need a little bit of go for it for the crux. Just remember that as with most climbing routes, the feet are really important.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Sep 13, 2007 rating: 5.11d
I did this back in the summer of 2001 with my buddy Scott Miller. Excellent climbing with a thrilling finish. Footwork is key.
By Jeff Giddings From: Fort Collins Jun 29, 2008 rating: 5.11d
I placed small stoppers before the crux moves instead of TCUs, because I didn't want to plug up any important finger locks. I had two very good stoppers about 6 inches apart to protect the hard moves. Your feet are above the gear at the desperate part but the fall is very clean. This is a great pitch.
Holdout
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