This is a sixty degree overhanging finger crack roof. Start on the obvious jug to the left of the crack where the crack is still a seam. You can top out at the horizontal about ten feet out via a big flake, which is quite fun, or for full value you can follow the crack all the way out the roof, topping out on a hand and fist crack. Going all the way out adds a couple more hard moves, but the crux is the first ten feet. If you take the crack all the way out, puzzle out the right foot sequence and the rock that is close at the end will be easy to get around. Also be warned, the left hand finger locks on this thing are particularly brutal. The crack is mostly good fingers. The name is inspired by how bizzarely balanced the rock this on is.
Location
This on the easternmost side of holdouts southeastern face, right at the base of the formation. The crack faces up toward the formation.
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