BETA PHOTO: This is the north side of Holdout. The faint righ...
Description
Between the main area and the Nautilus lies the Holdout, the closest a formation at Vedauwoo gets to rectangular. Although this formation has fewer routes than the Main Area or the Nautilus the high concentration of classic lines make for a mandatory visit. Mostly traditional lines, although a few high grade sport and mixed routes can be found. Classics include Arch Stanton (5.11d) on the SE side (lots of sun side) to Oslund's Delight (5.8), Currey's Diagnol (5.10b), Eleven Cent Moon (5.11d), Silver Surfer (5.9), Pipeline (5.12a) and the incomparable Beefeater (5.10b) on the NW side (late day sun).
Getting There
Easiest approach is via the campground. One can park at the lot outside the main area and walk into the park and through the campground finding trails that lead to the extreme southern end of the Holdout, continue down and left to the NW face, or up and right to reach the SE face.
A nice route below and slightly [right] of the plum line below Currey's anchors. Follows a traversing, thin crack left, before a mantle move above to reach the first of two bolts. Balancy moves reach the final dihedral. Place secure small wires before blasting through the thin moves of the crux. An unprotected face TR variation (12a) climbs up a thin dihedral off the crescent moon flake at the base directly into the line....[more]
I was climbing at the Holdout June 12, 2004. Someone (a lower form of life) stole all the Hangers from the top of all the climbs. We had to down climb a corner on the North-East end of the formation.
If you plan on doing any of the climbs on the South side of the Holdout (Flaming Blue Jesus, Arch Stanton, etc) be aware that today (5-16-07) none of the rap anchors on that side of the formation were usable for rapping. Either they lacked two usable hangers (Arch Stanton, Bushwhack) or else the hangers had no quick links or any other way to thread your rope safely. Be prepared to rap off of Beefeater or Currey's or else bring bail biners or quick links for the Flaming Blue Jesus anchor. Hopefully we can get these replaced soon.
I was out there last week, and there was one cold shut on the anchors for Bushwhack (or Narrow and Ugly or Wide and Ugly...). Not that I recommend hanging your life on a single piece, but the bolts are in great shape and we had no problem rapping off the one cold shut.
Please don't take it off, who ever is doing that.
Also, I wanted to add that it looks like the route labeling for the north end of the southeast face is a little off in the big red guidebook. Narrow and Ugly in the guidebook appears to point to a very thin seam which is NOT 5.8. The hand crack just to the right of it (which is un-labled in the book) is a nice 5.8.
Also, to get to these climbs, head up to the right side of the big ledge and scramble up a narrow gully (as described in the book). The left side of the ledge is a blank face.
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