BETA PHOTO: This is the north side of Holdout. The faint righ...
Description
Between the main area and the Nautilus lies the Holdout, the closest a formation at Vedauwoo gets to rectangular. Although this formation has fewer routes than the Main Area or the Nautilus the high concentration of classic lines make for a mandatory visit. Mostly traditional lines, although a few high grade sport and mixed routes can be found. Classics include Arch Stanton (5.11d) on the SE side (lots of sun side) to Oslund's Delight (5.8), Currey's Diagnol (5.10b), Eleven Cent Moon (5.11d), Silver Surfer (5.9), Pipeline (5.12a) and the incomparable Beefeater (5.10b) on the NW side (late day sun).
Getting There
Easiest approach is via the campground. One can park at the lot outside the main area and walk into the park and through the campground finding trails that lead to the extreme southern end of the Holdout, continue down and left to the NW face, or up and right to reach the SE face.
This is a sixty degree overhanging finger crack roof. Start on the obvious jug to the left of the crack where the crack is still a seam. You can top out at the horizontal about ten feet out via a big flake, which is quite fun, or for full value you can follow the crack all the way out the roof, topping out on a hand and fist crack. Going all the way out adds a couple more hard moves, but the crux is the first ten feet. If you take the crack a...[more]
I was climbing at the Holdout June 12, 2004. Someone (a lower form of life) stole all the Hangers from the top of all the climbs. We had to down climb a corner on the North-East end of the formation.
If you plan on doing any of the climbs on the South side of the Holdout (Flaming Blue Jesus, Arch Stanton, etc) be aware that today (5-16-07) none of the rap anchors on that side of the formation were usable for rapping. Either they lacked two usable hangers (Arch Stanton, Bushwhack) or else the hangers had no quick links or any other way to thread your rope safely. Be prepared to rap off of Beefeater or Currey's or else bring bail biners or quick links for the Flaming Blue Jesus anchor. Hopefully we can get these replaced soon.
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
RSS Feed
