Heartbreak June 

FA:  Pete Takeda and Lenore Sparks New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet, Grade II Season:  summer, fall, spring Views: 127 page views Submitted By: lenore sparks on Jul 1, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Heartbreak June.

Description 

This climb is on the prow to the right of Beta Blocker. Begin the climb with a very thin face move with a fixed nut/sling. Behind you is a large tooth that can serve as a bombay chimney. Move out of the chimney, around the block and into a thin, left facing corner with two fixed nuts. Lieback to crux sidepulls with sparse pro lead to another crack system. Follow this to a slab that joins with Beta Blocker hand crack. Fixed belay.

Location 

Heartbreak hotel NE side. Right of Beta Blocker. A huge nose-like feature makes this route obvious.

Protection 

Fixed nuts, green Alien, #1-3 Camalots. Yellow C3.

Photos of Heartbreak June Slideshow

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Pete at the start.

Lenore exiting the chimney move.