Bad Girls Dream 

FA:  Bob Scarpelli Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11 [details] Length:  60 feet Views: 970 page views Submitted By: jammer on Apr 15, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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My friend, Bart, onsighting this route. I think t...

Description 

Stiff. Starts out as overhanging hands and fists and slowly widens to an offwidth crux where the crack goes from overhanging to less than vertical. Fairly easy climbing to the top. Beautiful route. Do it!

Hey Bob, why'd you call it Bad Girls Dream?

BECAUSE IT'S BIG AND HARD, BWA HA HA!

Location 

This is the right most crack in the left hand alcove.

Protection 

#3.5 to #6 Friends. doubles up to #5 useful. Anchor up top. Save some hand and fist stuff for the top, there is a crack to stuff it in. Be careful at the crux, more than one climber has either kicked/dragged their gear completely out, or come close to it, leaving them with ground fall potential.

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J moving outside the crack