This photo shows the entire Fall wall area. The o...
Description
This route starts in the crack that lies in the center of the large boulder sitting at the base of the Fall Wall. This is a great training crack for mastering the lieback and you really don't need the two enormous chicken heads to the right of the crack anyway. An easy fun route. A two bolt anchor with chains is found at the top of the route.
Protection
Medium cams and passive pro will protect this well.
A great easy route that will take pro every inch of the way! A bit of a runout to the crack right off the deck, but not bad. The only route at Vedauwoo I've climbed that I thought was over rated for difficulty. 5.4 would be reasonable for this one.
I agree; pretty easy for the grade and I'd give it a 5.4 at most. This would be a great beginner trad lead as the gear is obvious, good, and plentiful. I climbed it entirely with tricams, IIRC. Anchor building is not an issue; just clip the chains and you're done.
By Buff Johnson From: Coniferous, CO Feb 3, 2006 rating: 5.4
Fun dihedral route! If it were only 10 pitches long, I might give it another star.
Most of the Fall Wall and Clamshell boulder routes - especially in the 5.5 to 5.7 range, were FA by Jim Halfpenny in the mid-60's, and also several unknown 10th Mountainn Division vets of WW II. The 5.11 crack was originally an aid route and piton scars are the finger-tip holds.