This route is the center crack on the Fall Wall and begins about 5 feet to the left of a large boulder that sits in the middle of the base of the Fall Wall. The climbing is thin and slaby with the exception of a few holds in the crack, which are also your best shot at protection. A two bolt anchor with chains awaits you under the roof.
Protection
There are two bolts on the route. The first is a long way up and the second is a long run from the first. A couple of stoppers (#5-6) as well as some small cams will protect the rest of the route.
I might even go so far as to give this route 3 stars. Continuous, technical, and thought-provoking for a 9. One of the sweetest sounds I ever heard was the biner snapping shut after finally clipping the first bolt on my first lead of this route.
This climb will get you going on the importance of technique. Our instructors friend toproped this for us. A real eye opener for a new climber. I hope to get to try it again!
Frequently the best solution to that sort of gear problem is to place gear at your waist, as you pass it. setting the smallest stopper possible allows for a remaining "pod" above that you can get your toes in without stepping on the gear.
You can't place gear everywhere on this route, but what you do get is pretty bomber and definately not runout. Listen to Tony. Placing gear at your waist is a good, efficient technique anyway. Besides, you're in Vedauwoo. R, X, S, VS...it needs to be pretty damn bad to get any of these letters here.
The good advice in the previous two comments notwithstanding, I would not recommend this as a lead for someone who is not solid at the grade. NOT a good "first 5.9 lead".
Place a directional at the base. There is a bomber small stopper placements before the bolt. Without a directional, a fall could potentially pull the stopper (depending on where your belayer is). I know of a climber that died falling backwards before reaching the first bolt. I don't know if his pro pulled or if he didn't place anything before the bolt.
I pretty sure the guy who died on this route fell before reaching the first bolt. I think he had a nut in, but pulled it on the way down which flipped him upside down, sending him head first into the rocks below. In any case I'm almost positive he hit head first, and thats what killed him.
This climb looks easier than it is. I agree with the gear comments - bring lots of small wires and place them after you've used the thin jams. Footholds are getting a little slippery.
Thought provoking is definitely the way to describe this really good route. The amount of concentration used makes this feel longer than it is. Put your trust in the micros and send!!!
Fall Wall
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