Jenny Schillinger follows 'Strawberry Jam (5.8)' o...
Description
NOTE: NUMBER 3 on the topo. Tape up or your hands will look like a bowl of mashed berries. Other than that, its simple - jam up the beautiful handcrack. Think about 'swapping sides' at the squeezy crux. The upper half turns into an offwidth trough (think about long pants, gobi knees). If you don't feel comfortable running out the last 30' to the anchors, set a belay (on gear) at the obvious shelf in an alcove. Bring up your second, then do the second short pitch to the top. This climb is the 5.8 Vedauwoo 'hands' testpiece.
Protection
Take a full rack, lite on the wires and assorted stuff, and heavy on the medium and large cams (rec. 3x#1, 3x#2, 2x#3, 2x#3 1/2 Camalots). A 60M rope is recommended. Its 2 rap stations to the ground from the top as indicated on the topo.
This really is a great line.We saw it when bush-whacking from the central area to the Valley Massif. Without looking up the grade or knowing what the line was we just stared and said "We are coming back to do that!" We did, and I am super-jazzed.
It takes cams from 1.5" to 3.5" for the first 40' of hand crack in perfect but toothy rock, until a slot crux. That crux can protect on a #4 Camalot, or a smaller piece placed further back. Once past the crux, the route will take hexes or cams from 2.5" to 5", depending on how far in you want to place them. You need not run this out much, even if you don't have a fist-full of #4s. I had two, but only used one. #3.5 Camalots are actually more frequently a good placement.
Great hands to a sweaty groaning offwidth, this great route is one you'll most definitely remember. it'd be nice to carry two 3.5 Camalots near the top of the offwidth.
This was a stellar route in my opinion. However i must give credit where credit is due. Brian Weinstien, my partner my wing man for life, grunted, groaned, cussed, and screamed up that off width. without enough big pro, bri sucked it up and ran out the remaining 25 feet,,,, i was most impressed....brian its on
This is a really great route for getting a taste of Vedauwoo and practicing some hand crack and off-width techniques. I used a lot of fist jams near the top, and a little grunting. Make sure to wear long pants and a shirt with sleeves-no sportsbras on this one.
The offwidth part of this climb seemed easier than the upper slot, just longer. There are some good jams and smallish gear (like #3's) in the back of the crack, but if you are scared and have a 4.5 or 5 you can walk it the entire length of the OW making this a good lead for those like me trying to get comfy in wide world.The last 30 feet are very interesting.
With H. McIntyre 8.21.06. This is a beautiful line that looks hard and strenuous and doesn't disappoint. Found it easiest to go left side in on the lower part (good hands to fists), then switch to right side in at the crux. Pro is bomber in the crack and OW, nonexistent on the lichenous face at the finish. Don't bother with any pro smaller than a .75 Camalot; the OW protects nicely with large, sideways hexes.
Guidebook lists the climb at 5.8- which is a sandbag for us ordinary mortals. I would rate the handcrack at 5.8, crux at 5.8+ or 5.9 (arm length dependent), and the OW at 5.7-5.8.
If you're in the habit of bringing your kids along, I'd recommend leaving them at home as this route inspires some, uh, interesting phraseology, i.e., 'Holy sh!t this is hard' and 'Mother of God!' and assorted F-bombs. Props are due my partner for seconding the pitch with considerably milder language and in rather better style!
Good climb, not the splitter handcrack I was expecting. I'd recommend doing this as 1 long pitch. Be sure to bring at least one #4 camalot sized cam. After the steep hand to fist crack start, I found the upper OW to be moderate and not the gruntfest others appear to have found.