NOTE: Number 4 on the topo. This is a great moderate hand crack (actually the 2nd pitch of Kitchen's Delight) that literally eats medium cams - and your hands if you don't tape up! Step across the void to the right (facing the rock) from the belay station and jam up the crack.
Protection
Take Camalots from #0.75 to #3.5, 2 each of #0.75, #1 and #2, a full range of wires and some extra 24" slings. The belay is on gear at the back of a large depression over the top. Arrange a 'remote' belay with an extra long length of your rope from your placements. This way you can not only see your second, but avoid big time rope drag. A 60 M rope is recommended. Its two rap stations to the bottom as indicated on the topo.
I think the description above takes the easier variation on the second pitch (Low Road, 5.2 per Heel and Toe).
First pitch -- can't say first-hand (we started with Croissant), but it does begin on an obvious crack from behind the huge boulder.
For the second pitch (Kitchen's Delight, not the variation listed above). Step just right of the belay. Head up the offwidth 15' to a roof. Traverse right under the roof (crux, mostly small cams) until you hit the beautiful (but easy) vertical hand/fist crack. Take this to the top. 2 raps, the lower of which is close to 30m.
Harper and Kelman list this as 7+, which I (surprisingly) found pretty accurate.
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