The first section (the right facing dihedral) is probably hard 5.8 but is suprisingly awkward in positioning despite the low angle. The second section I would recommend to split into a another pitch by belaying in the alcove- it requires a traverse left over to the crack that start with hands and opens way up to larger than fists, this section is the crux and seems to be somewhere around 5.9. From here there is a big ledge where you can pass thru to the otherside of the formation to walk off or keep going up another pitch (directly to the right) to the very top of Coyote Rocks via another ramping right facing dihedral, short squeeze chimney and a few face moves. This section is more casual and goes in the 5.6 range. Nice 360 deg views of surrounding area, Eagle Rocks, ect... There is a large chock stone that should still be slung with webbing and 2 oval biners to rap off the back side of the formation. 60 meter recommended but I believe a 50 will make it.
Location
The right-leaning seam, the project is the big landmark. Once you find that, you're golden. It's about halfway in between Unknown 2 and Unknown 3, or very near the Rose.
Protection
Bring doubles to big hands, then singles up to #6 C4.
Basically, follow the right-leaning dihedral to a big, ugly horizontal, then traverse left on the horizontal until you can move up via a wide crack (about big green camalot size) that goes straight up from the horizontal that marks the top of that old Scarpelli/Suzuki project, then walkoff or continue up via a 3rd pitch that I didn't really see. Bring doubles to big hands, then singles up to #6 C4.
The right-leaning seam, the project is the big landmark. Once you find that, you're golden. It's about halfway in between Unknown 2 and Unknown 3, or very near the Rose.
I am pretty sure that the right leaning seam is no longer a project. I may be thinking of something else, but I am pretty sure Edl sent that last season.
Sorry about the description, there is some sort of glitch with this page that won't allow me to edit anything. Basically repeating a lot of what Brain said in his description about the route. The first section (the right facing dihedral) is probably hard 5.8 but is suprisingly awkward in positioning despite the low angle. The second section I would recommend to split into a another pitch by belaying in the alcove- it requires a traverse left over to the crack that start with hands and opens way up to larger than fists, this section is the crux and seems to be somewhere around 5.9. From here there is a big ledge where you can pass thru to the otherside of the formation to walk off or keep going up another pitch (directly to the right) to the very top of Coyote Rocks via another ramping right facing dihedral, short squeeze chimney and a few face moves. This section is more casual and goes in the 5.6 range. Nice 360 deg views of surrounding area, Eagle Rocks, ect... There is a large chock stone that should still be slung with webbing and 2 oval biners to rap off the back side of the formation. 60 meter recommended but I believe a 50 will make it.
Coyote Rocks
RSS Feed
