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Mr. Rockbiter 
Never Ending Story 
Revenge of the Nothing 
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Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) 
TM Chimney 

Never Ending Story 

5.11b

   

FA: Layne Kopischka, 1981
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 110 feet
Views: 210 page views

Submitted By: Jason Haas on Jun 18, 2006


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Description 

Start up Mainstreet and just after the crux, clip the bolt on the right face and head for the face. A bolted anchor is slightly to the right of this bolt which is used as an intermediate anchor when rappelling rather than climbing up. From this anchor, climb straight up the line of bolts crimping the small crystals along the way. Do not traverse directly right after the third bolt. This would be the Revenge of the Nothing. Instead continue straight up, staying near the crack of Mainstreet.

There is a possible direct to this route, making a more obvious, plumb line. For this, start to the right of Mainstreet and go up an offwidth/chimney formed by the boulder and the main wall. Once ontop of this block, climb the seam up to a small roof and bust over some good edges to link up with the bolted anchor part of the original route. This start is harder than the original line, around 5.11c. Placing gear is hard and tricky, perhaps warranting an "R". Not sure who lead this direct start first, although the holds had plenty of chalk on it when I did the line.

A 70 meter rope will just get you down from the anchors unless you continue up on Mr. Rockbiter


Protection 

A bunch of quickdraws and a #5 Camalot for the start of Mainstreet.

Bring small cams if doing the direct start.