The Weber brothers climbing Fallout. The leader h...
Description
This rarely traveled yet quality pitch lies at the juncture of the Coke Bottle and Fall Wall. Begin as if you were going to climb TM Chimney, but then move right (as soon as it's reasonable to do so) back into the daylight, and continue straight up. There is a direct start; it is more difficult and harder to protect.
To descend, rappel from good anchors on a ledge at the top of the climb. The anchors are about 10 feet right of where you finish.
Protection
Hand sizes and bigger, up to 3.5 or 4 Camalots. The upper half of the pitch tends to take fist-sized pieces. There is a single bolt, about halfway up.
The direct start (5.10) is really nice and protects just fine (don't understand the comments that it doesn't. . .). This is a wonderful climb; mixed up, enjoyable moves. A great moderate "sampler" for the 'Woo (whichever start you choose). Two pieces to protect 5-6" is helpful and comforting (cams or bros).Continue up one of the face climbs for a nice finish.And don't worry 'bout the little R before the bolt - it'll make you think twice, but the moves/holds are very solid and really quite easy (5.8ish).
In retrospect, I s'pose that my comment regarding the protectability of the direct start was a bit misleading. Since beginning the pitch in the chimney on the left offers no options for pro at all, it would be more accurate to say that the direct start actually protects MORE easily.
Coke Bottle
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