This route takes the prominent dike system that diagonals right along the southeast face. The start is the crux and is heady though a fixed stopper eases the groundfall potential. Cruise through the two-move crux, and follow the line of bolts until the dike ends.
Protection
5 bolts, 1 fixed stopper, 1 pin, and 1 set of large stoppers. Belay near a pin, walk-off.
This route has a very stout, boulder start with a strenuous first clip. There was a small and manky nut before the first bolt that I'm not sure would hold a fall.
I placed a orange TCU and a medium nut in between some of the bolts. Continue climbing right on the dike until you reach a pod with a manky old pin. Set up a anchor with #0.75, 0.5 BD and a few nuts to bring up your second. Walk off to the climber's right.
By Beached Nuts From: Bermuda bitches Mar 23, 2008
Tough start, definitely harder than the guidebook (Fat Crack Country) rating of 9+. The holds especially towards the beginning aren't as obvious as they look. Yeah there is a few good places for gear but far in between, I wouldn't want to do this without the bolts.
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