This route, all though quite long, has only 20 feet of serious climbing. A good 40+ feet of typical slavery slab climbing leads to hero jug haulin out the steep corner. When that peters out there is a .12a move to a great pocket to recompose for the crux. Im pretty sure Huey crimped ladder style up those shitty crimps, which seems like it could be .13a. I found a way around and was able to reach past half of this crimp ladder which seemed an easier way for me. Whatever. It should be mentioned that there is a tough clip before the crux that should be extended with a sling or second draw. Big ride potential for the onsighter. All in all a fine, tall and proud addition to this stellar wall.
Of the handful of people I've talked to that have redpointed this route, all agree that it is .13a, albeit a soft one. Which begs the question is it harder than the other 12+ climbs on the wall. I don't think so. I can't do the crux move on Aunt Jemima .12d, nor have I sent Calm Like A Bomb .12d, which is an enduro route that I bolted and passed onto a friend for the FA. Yet it took just two goes to do The Burden. Hell, I have fallen off Screaming Night Hog .12c right at the end at least six times over the last 9 years. So I guess I'm not sure what this all means, maybe I'm just weak.
Slavery Wall
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