Climb past two bolts to the right of the big crack at the back of the right-facing corner. Step left across the crack to a ledge, clip the third bolt, and climb a flake on an unrelentingly vertical wall. Diagonal left to a good pocket, traverse back right, and do a burly pull-up from a sloping 1" wide edge to a good hold (crux). Continue up the face to a two shut, two bolt anchor. A "Wyoming .10d."
Location
Follow the Home Alone trail for 100', passing the cave, to the large right-facing corner.
Protection
6 bolts. In late August 2006, only one of the anchor bolts was equipped with a quicklink. Lower from the two shuts or leave a biner/quicklink in the other bolt hanger.
A great route that really checks in around .11c. Sandbagging is fun for all grades!!! This too is a Mike Decker route.
By Paully From: Butte, MT Jul 20, 2009 rating: 5.11a
I think the crux is height dependent, I struggled with it for a while until my buddy found the trick to the crux, huge undercling left gets you to the deep pocket below the 6th bolt, which is a 5.10d/5.11a move we thought.
RSS Feed
