This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
The first pitch of this route is the stuff...a great pure friction smearing workout. Ed calls this "5.7 or so" but I'm inclined to say it is 5.8 or 5.9-. SAAAAANDBAGGGGGG. This ends on a great ledge. The second pitch starts up the 5.4 crack system, then steps out left onto the water streak. The bolt is weirdly placed here, we intend to fix this problem this year. Nonetheless, the rest of the climb goes up the water streak above, progressively easier as you ascend. There is a steep step near the top that is interesting.
Location
Drive into Moonstone to the end of the road and park by the cabin. Above the cabin is a slightly right trending crack system (5.4). The route starts on the beautiful slab right of the base of this crack, look for the bolts. Rappell to descend.
Protection
Bolts, 3/8" Fixx. Fixx ring rappel anchors at all belays. May want a medium cam or sling to protect the step out onto the slab on the second pitch. 60m rope is required for the upper pitches. Two 60m ropes required to rappel the route, if go above the first pitch.
on 7/15/09 Kristi Stouffer and I fixed the start of the second pitch by adding a new bolt at the step out of the crack and another half way to the next bolt. Took the hanger off the original bolt...I think it's safer now...won't hit the belay ledge if you fall coming out of the crack.
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