The Faster We Go, The Rounder We Get 

FA:  Bob Branscomb, Ed DeLong 2007 New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Views: 175 page views Submitted By: bob branscomb on Feb 20, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Sticky situation MORE INFO >>> This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind. The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A great small hold, friction route on beautiful, clean stone. Cruxes between the first and fourth bolts. Somewhat led-out but not terribly so. The step over the roof is stimulating also. The second pitch has a lot of 5.9 friction/small face as well. 60m rope is required and if you rappel the route, two 60m ropes are required.

Location 

This route is on the initial wall you encounter when first driving up to the Moonstone. It is the next route left of Floating World, going over the rightish end of the long roof. The second pitch proceeds straight up the trough above the first belay.

Protection 

Bolts, 3/8" Fixx with Fixx ring rap anchors at belays. Take about 14 clips, including a couple of single length runners for the roof.