This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
For respect of the local ranchers, always close the gates after passing through. Approach from the Nolan Pocket side is usually not restricted but there are closures for grazing leases on the Lankin Gap side from March-June. Be polite and non-confrontive to ranchers.
If you enjoy moderate granite slab climbing, you'll love this obscure gem! There is an excellent topo of the route in Collins & White's Lander Rock guide. The climbing is generally moderate with some more difficult (5.9) slab climbing coming on the 4th and 5th pitches. Descend by walking off to the west down the Cowboy Route. (This could be very dangerous if wet!)
Location
This is an excellent slab route which starts near the lowest point of the dome, down and left of the tree route. The start can be identified by a large, thin, left-pointing flake with bolts to it's left.
Protection
A rack of draws will protect most of the climbing, supplemented by a few wires and cams up to #2 camalot for belays and the occasional placement. Although bolted, be prepared for longer run-outs in some places. A 60 meter rope is recommended.
this is a super good route, did it in 2003 while going to school at UW, on the last pitch there is a straight up .11 variation and .10 variation going right, both are excellent face routes with adequate pro.
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