This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Sweetwater Rocks page.
Description
Super steep climbing up a finger and hand crack to a difficult boulder problem pulling over a roof. The first half is mostly slopy jugs outside the crack. Then you do a wicked hard boulder problem using rattly fingers and heel hooking to surmount the roof. The last 20-30 feet is decent but pumpy 5.11 fingers in a corner. This route would be on the cover of Climbing if it were in a less remote area.
Location
Left of Geophysical. There is a bolted dihedral (possibly 5.14) between the two routes.
Protection
Small stoppers for the bottom. A 3.5 friend protects the section before the roof. There is a bolt in the roof section that makes the crux feel more secure, if just a little.
The bolt in the roof section also serves to keep your rope out of the crack. Reportedly, before the bolt was placed, a fall after turning the roof could wedge the rope between a rock and a cam lobe, with predictable results. The bolt was (reportedly) placed after one such incident.
Cranner Rock
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