Steamboat Point seen from Highway 14. The trail ca...
Description
This prominent reef of Bighorn Dolomite looms over Highway 14 and provides sunny sport-climbing in a scenic setting. Despite it's proximity to this major mountain highway, only limited development preceded a flurry of activity which began a few years ago. Steamboat has developed into the best moderate sport crag on this side of the Bighorns; there are currently 16 bolted pitches 5.10 or under, most of which are great quality.
Being so new, the amenities of a developed crag are still in the process. There are no defined trails yet, and many of the climbs have some loose rock due to lack of traffic and the sometimes friable dolomite(helmet is recommended). Tick marks have yet to be installed as well. However, if you're willing to do without these perks, your payoff will be some fine climbing without a crowd.
There are many routes on all sectors of Steamboat and on the massive boulders below the cliff. The walls described here have seen the most traffic thus far, but certainly aren't all the area has to offer. A new cragging guidebook is due out in spring of '09 and will fully cover Steamboat and many other crags on the east side of the Bighorns. It'll be available locally at any climbing shops, including Rendezvous Trading Co. in Ranchester, Backcountry Bicycles in Sheridan, and Sports Lure in Buffalo.
Getting There
From the tiny town of Dayton at the eastern foot of the Bighorns, drive west 13 miles on Highway 14 up its many curves and switchbacks. As it begins to plateau out, look right and Steamboat will be the obvious cliff rising on the ridge above the highway. Park in a large pullout on the left side of the highway opposite Steamboat. Carefully cross the road and slog up an abandoned jeep trail (really steep at first but mellowing out shortly). This trail actually accesses the summit of Steamboat and is a relatively popular local hike. Continue along the trail until it nears the south face and then head up the hill to the base of your desired wall.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Dec 7, 2007
This is a great piece of rock (sure is sharp though), with excellent views. Highly recommended! I first started climbing there in 1993, we did lots of routes, how the years go by.