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Dogs of War 

5.13b

   

FA: Frank Dusl
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 385 page views

Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 26, 2006


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Description 

Dogs of War has scads of 5.12 climbing with a very bouldery crux on crimps buried in the mid-height on the climb. A jug allows a shake before the crux. Two variations on travel exist after the crux 1) either directly right into Pretty Hate Machine (13b/c), or 2) up before more slowly merging w/ PHM. The 2nd version involves a few more stout pocket cranks than the 1st. The final few clips of Dogs of War are shared with Pretty Hate Machine and involve more pocket climbing on the final bulge. Possible softer than 13b variation 1) and likely 13b for 2).


Location 

Located near center on the wall, just left of the big juniper at the base. Converges high on the route with Pretty Hate Machine which climbs from directly behind the juniper.


Protection 

8 bolts (1 or 2 shared with PHM) to anchors.



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By Tom Rangitsch
From: Lander, WY
Jun 13, 2008
rating: 5.13a

Great route, but definitely easier than PHM. Dogs' crux is brief and not too bad if you can crimp well. The new Bechtel guide gives both routes 5.13b, but I really think that it's a letter grade easier.