Sinks Canyon is a premier climbing destination, plus its proximity to the Wind River range, Wild Iris, Fossil Hill, Baldwin Creek, and the NOLS headquarters make the Lander area something to check out. Maybe even over and over. If you haven't headed up there, maybe even check out the annual climbers fest (July - http://www.climbersfestival.org ), where Lander throws climbers a big 'ol party. This canyon has it all; three types of rock : limestone, granite, and sandstone; sport, bouldering, and trad; with alpine climbing just further up in the Winds.
The sandstone and granite are predominately trad while the limestone is mainly sport. The south facing cliffs of the Main walls and Fairfield Hill are sunny and warm, making the best season to climb here spring and fall. Rock quality is generally good to superb. The order of the cliffs on the main limestone wall from east to west (down to up canyon) is: Scud Wall, Killer Cave, Camel Jockey, Briskets, White Heat Wall, Addiction, The Citadel, Hardware Wall, Fallen Idol, The Moss/Wave Cave, Purple Galaxy, and the Wilds. Fairfield Hill (East, Central, and West) is further west (upcanyon). Watch out for 1) afternoon thunderstorms rolling off the Winds 2) numerous rattlesnakes and 3) locals who have 'Killer' wired.
For amenities, Lander is one of THE climber friendliest towns ever. You can camp in the grassy city park for free with a three day limit. There a three pay campgrounds ($10?) as you head up into the canyon, with the third located within walking distance of the main approach trails. These campgrounds are free September - April, which contains much of the climbing best season. A year-round free campground is located just 1/2 mile up the canyon on the left, after the Geology Camp. This has even has a bathroom and a trashcan, pretty sites, some accessible only via short 4WD types of roads or drag your gear into them. These can be popular with the local Lander teens. Theft has been more of a problem here, and somewhat at the pay campgrounds, according to local law enforcement. Lander has a decent collection of reasonable motels for 'that' kind of crowd. There are a handful of good restaurants, such as the Gannet Grill, a Chinese place, a Mexican joint and others. There are two grocery stores. There is a climbing gym for when you have been snowed out: The Gravity Club, 221 S 2nd. Street. The National Outdoor Leadership School is centered in Lander at 502 Lincoln. You can get a showers at NOLS, the Gravity Club, or the Lander pool.
Lander, Sinks and this area of Wyoming is something to cherish. Have fun, be respectful to the locals (including them feisty rattlesnakes), and pack out all trash.
Getting There
Head to Lander (NW of Rawlins, NE of Rock Springs) and head west of town on Wy 131 -- sign near Safeway in town.
A great dihedral line. The true sport climber might feel as though the line is closer to 9+, but if you have any crack technique you will be constantly debating: Do I pull on the pockets or pull on solid jams and locks? Climb the right leaning dihedral on solid lock, until it fades into a small roof just before the chains. The crux of the roof is getting your feet over the lip, and as is often the case flexibility is one your best assets here....[more]
Sinks now has a lot of 5.10s and even some great 8's and 9's so there is something for everybody. Climbed there last July 4th after the routes went in the shade (about 3:00 PM that time of year) and my son and I were the only people on the crag. In the shade the temperature was fine. Can't explain the lack of people but it was really a terrific day! Also don't miss the Gannett Grill.
From May to August, Sinks Canyon experiences a seasonal Rattlesnake Migration. This is more than just an unusual number of snakes-- they are on the move, traveling in packs of two to nine, and are extremely aggressive. Moreover, they like to follow the line of the cliff as they migrate. It is not unusual to pull over a tough roof move and find yourself face to face with a five foot venomous rattlesnake. The last victim was bitten on the neck. He was dead before his partner finished lowering him to the ground.
Rattlesnake migration??? Well I have been there nine summers in a row during this "migration" period and have yet to see a rattlesnake although I have seen a lot of bull snakes which are often mistaken for rattlesnakes. During my summer trips there I got to know the campground hosts Chuck and Mitzi (sp?) They lived at the Sinks Canyon campground for several summers. Chuck was a retired cowboy and the kind of guy that knew a rattlesnake when he saw one. He had never seen one and thought it was too high for them there. Ya Rattlesnakes might be there but I find it hard to believe that punkencack's post is legitimate.
Don't be such a dork, I was just there yesterday and saw at least fifteen rattlers chasing some cute girl from Boulder down the trail. Good thing she moved so fast.
If only the snakes were migrating during the good season to climb. I'm all but certain I could leave a pan of brownie batter out at the base of Killer in the middle of July, come back in an hour, and have a batch of brownies ready.
Sinks Canyon
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