West Chimney 

FA:  Trevor and Eddie Bowman 5/3/08 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 135 feet Views: 29 page views Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on May 4, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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The old man on the summit of the Splinter, with Sh...

Description 

P1-The tight chimney of good rock on the down-canyon side of the spire. Wriggle up this past 4-5 chockstones (bring several double or triple-length runners). From the top of the chimney, hike up a short slope of dirt and talus--be extremely careful of loose rocks here!--and sling a giant chockstone in the notch between the summit pinnacle and the cliff behind for an anchor.
P2--Pull above the anchor chockstone and up a leaning crack on the summit pinnacle; step left onto the featured slab and run it out to the top.
The summit is quite cool, as it is a smooth sheet of dolomite tilted at a slight angle.

Location 

Obvious chimney on west (down-canyon side of spire). The short second pitch starts directly out of the notch between the summit pinnacle and the cliff. Rap off the opposite face from the route (140'); or, rap down to the notch (25') and scramble off on ledges on the up-canyon side of the spire past dense brush (kind of a thrash).

Protection 

Several 3-4 double/triple length runners for chockstones and a cordalette for the chockstone anchor on P1. A couple medium stoppers and a 1" cam for P2. 2 bolt anchor on top. Bring replacement webbing.