Awesome new addition up the main portion of Rock Springs Buttress. After the first easy pitch, the climbing is characterized by steep (vertical to slightly overhanging) climbing on excellent stone with thoughtful cruxes. The cruxes are brief, but the steep nature keeps you working.
P1 (5.8) The first bolt is about 30' up on a headwall left of an obvious corner. Follow the line of bolts up (it goes way right at one point in time) to the fixed anchor (30m)
P2 (10a/b) Awesome stemming up the dihedral leads to a step right onto an arete. Continue up to the fixed anchors (25m)
P3 (10b) Cool moves up a right facing corner, lead to an undercling and then a steep and challenging headwall. Hanging Belay. Short Pitch (15-20m)
P4 (10b/c) More awesome, steep edging up the headwall (25m)
Location
The climb begins about 100' climber's right of the Exum Arete, down the loose trail at the base. An old piton is about 5' off the ground (great for hanging packs) and is right below the first bolt (30' up).
Protection
Fully bolted. Anchors rigged for rappel, but they are a little funky. One bolt has a chain and the other bolt has a carabiner.
Rappel Descent
We rapped the route, but getting to the belay on top of P1 is difficult, as the rap puts you 10' out in space. (Tie knots!) Next time I'll clip the bolts during the rap as directionals, and then have the second person clean them.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jul 3, 2009
Climbed it again. The grades I posted above still seem about right... If you bring alot of draws (maybe 20?) you can link the last two pitches and avoid a hanging belay. It'll be about a 40-50m long, engaging, and pumpy pitch.
Sounds like the top of pitch one can be confusing for some folks. Don't get suckered over to Grand Central on the right. After the piton towards the top of P1, head up and left to a bolt and a small bulge. Belay at a small ledge with bolts and chain/ biners. From the belay you will see a bolt not too far to the right, heading into a gray dihedral, that is pitch two. You can see the pitch two dihedral from the ground, scope it out before heading up. Awesome route!!
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