Blimpie 

FA:  Doug Coombs, Hans Johnstone Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine Consensus:  5.10b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 125 feet Season:  late Spring-early Fall Views: 251 page views Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 13, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This is a spectacular variation finish to Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route). Exposed, technical liebacking up a crack for 50 feet gains a beautiful, bolt protected face. The face, while imposing, has plenty of features to keep you moving steadily upwards... A long, memorable pitch.

Location 

From the 3rd set of anchors on Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) step right into a corner and then continue up the thin crack on the headwall. Exciting liebacking moves up this crack get you to the first bolt. Bolts take you all the way to the chains from here. You'll pass another set of anchors off to your left on the way.

Protection 

I'll confess that I've only had the opportunity to TR this route, but while climbing I inspected the gear. One set of cams from small TCUs to #3 Camalot, nuts, and quickdraws. The gear is all there when you need it and this is a reasonably safe, but exposed, lead for someone comfortable at the grade.