No real crux to this bad boy, just fun movement. I'm not sure of this route's name, but I've heard it called Electric Arch. I'm also fairly certain Greg Miles established it (he developed Electric Shower's second pitch, which went in around the same time). Anyway, this pretty much follows the corner and arete of the arch that forms the roof of Electric Shower. Some interesting liebacking and ramp-crawling. Can be a little dirty.
Location
Right of Muff Buster.
Protection
Bolts, 2-bolt anchor (same as for Electric Shower).
This is called Mulvado Edge in the Dramis guide. Whatever it's called, it's a pretty decent climb. If you stay right at the top and finish at the anchors on top of Electric Shower, you can continue into the second pitch of Electric Shower for one long pitch that takes about 17-18 draws. A 70-meter rope will get you within a few feet of the ground, just right of the base of Electric Shower where it is easy to down scramble. The second pitch of Electric Shower is, in my opinion, only 5.11a if you stick very true to the bolt line. Instead, you can wander around on big holds, always within arm's reach of the bolts for a pitch that is more in the 10- or mid-10 range. That way, it makes the entire Mulvado Edge/Electric Shower 2nd pitch a fine, moderate, long climb.
RSS Feed
