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Mount Moran

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CMC Route 
Direct South Buttress 
No Escape Buttress Smoke & Mirrors 
No Escape Buttress, West Arete 
South Buttress Right, Mt. Moran 


Mount Moran

Submitted By: Dr. Evil on May 11, 2006
Elevation: 12,605 feet
Latitude: 43.8350  Longitude: -110.7760 
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Mt Moran. This mountain actually has a cap of sand...


Description 

Mt. Moran is the broad peak in the northern Teton range. It stands somewhat apart from the other Teton peaks. Moran has many beautiful rock/ice routes while being much less visited than the other Teton peaks.


Getting There 

The approach to the most popular routes on Mt. Moran involves canoeing across String and Leigh Lakes. From inside Grand Teton National Park, go to South Jenny Lake Junction and follow signs to the String Lake Parking Area. Canoe across String Lake, portage to Leigh Lake, and canoe across Leigh Lake.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Moran:
CMC Route   5.5     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade II   
South Buttress Right, Mt. Moran   5.11     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 750 feet, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in Mount Moran

Featured Route For Mount Moran
the double pendulum/aid pitch near the top of the roped climbing on the DSB on Moran. Photo of Andrew Kulmatiski taken by Luke Zachmann.

Direct South Buttress 5.9 C1  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mount Moran
An historic 11p route up a sea of granite on the South buttress of Mt. Moran. When combined with the upper ridge to the summit, this is the longest route in the lower 48. I would be surprised if there is a longer rock route in N. America. The first ascent (1953), the exposure, the paddle in, and the setting, make this a classic. Climb (5.3) for about 400-500' up a gulley to the second ledge. This gulley is located about 100yds past some tree...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY


Photos of Mount Moran Slideshow Add Photo
Mt. Moran, GTNP.

Mt. Moran, GTNP.

Mount Moran: view of the CMC, Dike, Falling Ice and upper Skillet Glaciers from the East Horn

BETA PHOTO: Mount Moran: view of the CMC, Dike, Falling Ice an...

Mt. Moran from Grizzly Bear Lake, showing the back side of the dike and the southwest couloir.

Mt. Moran from Grizzly Bear Lake, showing the back...

Yellowstone fires heating up for another run, viewed from Mt. Moran, July '88.

Yellowstone fires heating up for another run, view...

Storm over Leigh Lake.

Storm over Leigh Lake.