Looking off the top of the Buckingham Ridge at the...
Description
From the Meadows head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. The Buckingham Ridge climbs the buttress forming the left side of the Ellingwood Couloir (see location below). This buttress is broad and many variations are possible.
The standard route follows the right edge of the buttress for 4 pitches to a notch. Here the buttress is narrower and your options are fewer. From a belay on chockstones, climb the face of a tower. Continue upward 3 or 4 more pitches to the South Summit. You can bypass the South Summit on the right if you like.
It is not easy to get off the South Summit, to continue do a short rappel into the notch towards the main summit and then walk to the main summit.
Location
The east ridge, with it's dike, contains a prominent pinnacle called the Dike Pinnacle. SW of this pinnacle is the Ellingwood Couloir. The Buckingham Ridge follows the buttress forming the left hand edge of this couloir, and leads directly to the South Summit in 8 or 9 pitches.
Protection
Standard rack.
Descent
Downclimb the Southwest Couloir route.
History
I've always called this route the Buckingham Ridge, in honor of William Buckingham who did many early Teton ascents. In the guidebook it is simply called the Southeast Ridge. Buckingham put up this route as well as Mt. Owen's Serendipity Arete, and many others.
By Nick Stayner From: Tuolumne Meadows Apr 3, 2007
This is a wonderful long moderate with a fair shake of "alpine" issues: routefinding, dealing with the Ellingwood Couloir (which can be nasty), and keeping a quick pace. Quality of rock, however, is not an issue. Enjoy!
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