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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buckingham (SE) Ridge 
Dike Pinnacle North Face 
Dike route 
North Ridge 
Northwest Ice Couloir 
Southwest Couloir 
Unsorted Routes:

Southwest Couloir 

3rd

   
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 4000 feet, Grade II
Consensus: 3rd [details]
FA: H. Morris and I. Christensen, 1927
Season: Summer
Submitted By: George Bell on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: Southwest Couloir from the South Teton (8/94).

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Description 

This is the standard route on the Middle Teton. From the Meadows, head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. Going up this fork is more time consuming than the north fork due to a lack of a (decent) trail. Climb all the way to the saddle between the Middle and South Tetons (do not branch off right early).

The couloir should now be obvious on the left (west) side of the ridge leading to the summit. If snow-filled, ice axe and crampons will be needed. It seems, however, that this couloir melts out relatively rapidly. I remember it becomes quite narrow towards the top, and is a bowling alley if anyone is above you. Helmets recommended! The couloir tops out very near the summit.


Location 

Descend the same route.


Protection 

None.



Photos of Southwest Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Matt Schroer, Ryan Choi, and Kent Christensen on the summit of Middle Teton

Matt Schroer, Ryan Choi, and Kent Christensen on t...


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By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 3rd

GREAT route! Did this in early September - take an ice axe and wear a helmet in the couloir. Crampons were not used, but missed while crossing ice hard snowfields at 6am. How is the summit view? Get up there and see for yourself - you will not be disappointed.