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Disappointment Peak

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East Ridge 
Irene's Arete 
Open Book 

Disappointment Peak

Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Mar 8, 2006
Elevation: 11,618 feet
Views: 18,376 page views

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Description 

This area includes popular climbs accessible from the Garnet Canyon trail. The standout climbs included Irene's Arete and Open Book. In general, the climbs don't summit the peak, and instead climb features along the flanks of the peak above the Garnet Canyon trail.


Getting There 

Park at the Lupine Meadows trailhead in Grand Teton National Park. Follow the trail through the lowlands for about 1.5 miles, until it begins switchbacking. There will be a fork to your left for the Valley Trail - which you ignore. At around 3 miles, take the left fork heading into Garnet Canyon. The right fork keeps going to Amphitheater and Surprise lakes - a nice hike, and my preferred way to descend from Open Book.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Disappointment Peak:
East Ridge   5.6     Trad, Alpine, 500 feet   
Irene's Arete   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade III   
Open Book   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in Disappointment Peak

Featured Route For Disappointment Peak
Profile of Irene's - nice view of the good ledges

Irene's Arete 5.8  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak
This route is, by itself, worth going to Jackson. Not a bad pitch or belay station on this climb.Pitch 1 (5.7) is marked by a tree located well to the climber's right of the arete proper. Straightforward to the belay at a good stance with a block. If traversing in from the Caves area, you won't start at the tree (nor will you be able to see the tree), you will probably rope up and traverse in about 40' above the tree then my suggestion is ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY