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Omega Buttress
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Omega Crack 

5.12b

   

FA: Hans Johnstone/Greg Collins - Originally equipped by Sam Lightner
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 2 pitches, Grade II
Views: 455 page views

Submitted By: Forest on Sep 7, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Location and approach


Description 

OMEGA CRACK - P1: 5.12b, P2: 5.12b

The finest rock route I've done in the Tetons. Exceptional rock. Very clean cracks, with technical and powerful face climbing. Far and away the steepest crack in the Tetons.


Location 

Approach
From Death Canyon TH: Follow trail 100m past slabs at the base of Omega Buttress. Follow scree slope up and right until easy 5th class ledges. Follow easy ledges to the base of the overhanging wall.

Descent
One double rope rappel to the base of the climb. Follow easy ledges down and west until a tree with slings is found. One double rope rappel brings one back to the top of the scree slope.


Protection 

PARAPHERNALIA:
10 Quickdraws
1 Set of stoppers
1 Set of Friends with two extra of #2, #3
1 Long sling



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Topo

BETA PHOTO: Topo


Comments on Omega Crack Add Comment
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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
Sep 7, 2007

This is the best rock climb in the Tetons. It is perhaps the steepest crack I have ever been on. That being the case, rappellling down it with only one 60 would be horrid. If you go to the top your partner has to go to the top as well.

By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Jul 5, 2008

Sam, maybe it would be more accurate to call it "the best west-facing hand crack of two pitches on central Omega Buttress". Best rock climb in GTNP? Hmmm.