This tricky traverse boasts perhaps the shortest approach in Jackson. A huge array of big, polished holds promote a number of sequences at the many cruxes. Everybody seems to have their own way to go. A fun way to get a deep pump. Character is way different than the less-steep edges of Lower Blacktail....[more]Browse More Classics in WY
By Nick Stayner From: Tuolumne Meadows Jul 18, 2006
Just FYI, first ascent information probably refers just to those that equipped the routes. According to local climbing historians, this was a very popular toprope area before the routes were bolted for leading.
Just FYI Nick, First ascent credit goes to the person who equipped the route and led it without a fall, not top rope. In the case of Blacktail, its generally the same person; Rex Hong.
By Nick Stayner From: Tuolumne Meadows Apr 3, 2007
Sorry I confused you... I wasn't saying that the earlier toprope parties should have FA credit. I think it's an interesting historical note about the crag, that it had a life as a toprope/trad(?) crag before it was bolted. Anyway, whatever. Thanks for all the work you've done, especially at Blacktail.
It's amazing how much of the climbing history the locals are missing. John Gill soloed most of the stuff on Blacktail butte back in the late 50's and early 60's. His name is in-seperable from the rock its self. Pat Aments book details it fairly well as well. One comment I recall from aments book, master of rock, "One climber who accompanyed Gill to the butte stated that he couldent top rope some of the stuff Gill was soloing". Sorry to disagree with the comments but the history is there if you look for it. Allen
Hmmmm, a toprope is not considered an FA? I beg to differ. A no hangs, tr ascent is an FA, if only a tr FA. A no hangs tr ascent still requires spotting the potential route and giving it a go, putting together the moves, pulling off loose holds, etc. Most retro-bolted sport leads are only done after the line has been toproped, making the first sport lead a headpoint at best. This is not to say that leading while clipping bolts from the ground up is not an accomplishment. Leading ground up is obviously a bit more committing. Actually, I don't see a huge difference between toproping a line and clipping bolts on a sport climb where the bolts are only one body length apart. I toproped many of the lines on Blacktail Butte back in the mid seventies and they had been toproped for a couple of decades before this Johnny-Come-Lately stepped on that stone in his EB's. Yes, how the climb was done (tr or lead) does have a bearing on the difficulty, but PLEASE give credit where credit is due. A big part of the FA is visualizing the line and putting the moves together. Why disregard the true first ascentionist or rename a route simply because you've turned an existing route into a sport climb? This attitude may have more credence if the line was led trad, however it would still not detract from the fact that someone has climbed it before you. History is a fascinating aspect of our sport. Don't overwrite history in order to feed your ego. Sure, go ahead and claim the first sport lead after bolting an pre-existing route, but don't claim an FA.
I can't say for sure about Gill but I would assume so, since he spent quite a bit of time in the area.
I heard of Blacktail Butte back at Devils Lake,WI and spent a couple of day's TR'g there in the summer of '73.
A couple of weeks later, we ran into "The Master" himself, John Gill while we were bouldering at the Big Sandy trailhead in the Wind's and spent an afternoon with him.
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