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Dem Bones Buttress 

Avalanche Canyon

Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Jul 30, 2007
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The Dem Bones Buttress


Description 

Avalanche Canyon is the first canyon south of Garnet Canyon. Popular objectives in the area are Mt. Wister, the rock climbs of Matternaught Peak, and other non-summit routes. On the routes I've climbed in the area (and by all other accounts), the rock has been excellent. Most climbs are approached from points at or beyond Taminah Lake, so a bivy here is highly recommended. There are plenty of routes to occupy a weekend! But apparently the Park Service only issues one bivy permit for the area, though there were multiple parties each time I've been there.


Getting There 

Park at the Taggart Lake Parking Area. It's on the left, and is the first trailhead you come to after entering the park via the Moose station. Follow the main trail to Taggart Lake and wrap around the lake's north end. Keep your eyes peeled for a trail that takes off to the west as the main trail begins to travel northwest. As of late July '07, this trail was covered with sticks and rocks, making it appear that somebody doesn't want you up there. Disregard these confusing markers and take off on this trail. The trail travels through the bottom of the canyon, and is sometimes faint, log-covered, and bogged out. The destination is always obvious, however, as the canyon is not that wide. Look for helpful cairns in a number of areas. I don't know the mileage, but it takes about 3-3.5 hrs. to reach Lake Taminah.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Avalanche Canyon:
Lazy Bones   5.10b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   Dem Bones Buttress
Dem Bones   5.10b/c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   Dem Bones Buttress
Los Huesos   5.10+     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Dem Bones Buttress
Browse More Classics in Avalanche Canyon