Mountain Project: Climbing Grand Teton National Park

Grand Teton National Park offers the climber an array of climbing types, positions, settings and conditions. There's everything from two-pitch sunny crag adventures to mixed alpine endurance testpieces. A more detailed description of the climbing character can be found in the descriptions of each area.

Getting There

Grand Teton National Park is located about 10 miles north of Jackson, WY. Directions to specific trailheads can be found in the individual areas.

Nearby Climbing

When visiting the Tetons, you might want to check out some of the other local climbing. The nearby climbing generally has less of a commitment factor, and is good for "rest" days or in questionable weather. Check out the Jackson Hole section for information on other climbing in the area.

And if the weather goes south but you still want to climb, be sure to check out Jackson Hole's new full-service climbing gym - The Enclosure Indoor Climbing Center . Over 10,000 sqft of sweet climbing wall at the foot of the Tetons.

Resources

Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch

The Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch offers the most affordable and accessible lodging for climbers visiting Grand Teton National Park. Cabins are a short walk from the Lupine Meadows trail, providing easy access to climbing in the Tetons. Join the American Alpine Club and save $8/night. Open June-September.

Book Reservations

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grand Teton National Park:

Owen Spalding 5.4 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1560 feet, Grade II Grand Teton

Upper Exum Ridge 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 4000 feet, Grade II Grand Teton

CMC Route 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade II Mount Moran

Direct Petzoldt Ridge 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III Grand Teton

Lower Exum Ridge 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet Grand Teton

Serendipity Arete 5.7 C1 Trad, Aid, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III Mt Owen

Guide's Wall 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II Cascade Canyon

North Ridge 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV Grand Teton

Irene's Arete 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade III Disappointment Peak

North Face Highlight Tour 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV Grand Teton

The Grand Traverse 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 12000 feet, Grade V Grand Teton

Beyer East Face I 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III Grand Teton

Open Book 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Disappointment Peak

Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400 feet Cascade Canyon

The Snaz 5.10a Trad, Alpine, Grade IV Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress

Gold Face 5.10a Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 565 feet, Grade III Grand Teton

Caveat Emptor 5.10- Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress

Sunshine Daydream 5.11- Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress

South Buttress Right, Mt. Moran 5.11 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 750 feet, Grade IV Mount Moran

Blitzkrieg 5.11d PG13 Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70 feet Blacktail Butte : Upper Blacktail Butte

Photos of Grand Teton National Park

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BETA PHOTO: Looking south from the Grand Teton summit. From ri...	S. Cathedral Group	N. Cathedral Group
Spousal Unit looking into Idaho from the lower sad...	Jenny Lake Stream @ Sunset	Tetons. Photo by Blitzo.
Snake River and Grand Tetons, winter. Photo by Bli...	Tetons from the air (17,000 feet) during a mid-win...	From Antelope Flats
Middle Teton via Garnet Canyon	BETA PHOTO: Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail photo: Chris...	Sunrise on the 3 Beauties. Time to Play
Tetons in the mist	Morning Sun	BETA PHOTO: The Grand Teton facing North from the Lower Saddle
Sunset on the Tetons, GTNP, WY.	How to really enjoy the Tetons...	The moose I nearly ran into on the horse trail, Je...
By moose junction...	The rappel out of the north entrance of GTNP can a...	Bull bison on the plain below the Tetons.
Mt Moran from Leigh Lake	BETA PHOTO: Looking south from Teewinot	Cathedral Group
Teton moonrise.	Tetons from the west in Jan.	Teton cloudscape.
Grand Teton and Owen from the northwest, in a very...	Meadows campsite in Garnet Canyon.	Just a nice picture of Nez Perce (left) and the Mi...
Sunrise over Teewinot	Mid-October '09 view from Baxter's.	Grand Teton Range from Mormon Row. Sep 2007. Pho...
The lot of them	When in The Tetons, try Bitch Creek ESB. Photo by ...	Great Tets!
taken from the NatFor camping area	Teton!	Grand Teton.
The Grand Cathedrals!	MT. Moran and the Tetons	Teton god-rays
Sky Pilot.

Comments on Grand Teton National Park

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By Buff Johnson
Mar 8, 2006

This area has amazing rock quality, and is also a mix of great hiking. My best experiences here were planning on car-to-car outings without hauling all the overnight stuff. I seem to end up at Mountain High Pizza for some good grub after an outing. Staying at the AAC Climber's Ranch is a good way to get more info about conditions from others that have come back - we avoided two verglas epics by doing this.

Also, going to the ranger's station @ Jenny Lake is also good to talk with them.

By Forest
Jul 7, 2007

Baxter's Pinnacle :: On or about June 25, 2007, Sam Lightner and I replaced the rap anchor on Baxter's Pinnacle. The old anchor consisted of 2 pitons and a star bolt "equalized" with webbing. (In truth, all the force of the rappel was on 1 piton) We removed both pitons and all the webbing and replaced with 2 stainless bolts with chain. One a 3/8 and one a 1/2, both drilled by hand. Should be noted that one of the pitons, the one bearing the rap force, pulled out by hand and the other came out without a fight. We left the star bolt as a bit of historical artifact. Special thanks to ASCA for donating the hardware. Enjoy.

Forest Dramis

By Spencer Purvis
From: Golden, CO.
Sep 6, 2009

I thought I should take this chance to plug the accommodations at the American Alpine Club Climber's Ranch. I spent six nights this past August at the Ranch and had a blast hanging out with a variety of diverse and friendly climbers. It is an affordable option with all the resources a Teton climber could need, including a fine library, wi-fi weather updates, great showers and a true climber's kitchen. It was a great place to visit with climbers as they filed in after their various climbs. You can always find someone willing to help with tricky approaches or beta for the climb and descent routes. The only drawback is that the cabins can be somewhat noisy with climbers on different schedules. Still, I would encourage any climber to take advantage of this resource and support the ranch.

By Robert Hyman
From: Washington, DC
Mar 30, 2011

Hi everyone, I have been to the Tetons every summer for the past 22 years to climb. If you are looking for a great place to stay from June until September the Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch is the place to go. Run by The American Alpine Club as a place for climbers to meet and discuss climbing all located in the shadow of the Grand Teton. for more info go to www.friendsofgtcr.net
hope to see you this summer! Robert the Explorer

By Keith Henderson
Jul 29, 2011

I am living in Cheyenne and planning a trip to the Tetons in mid Augest and looking to climb Grand Teton while I am there. Is there anyone that would be interest in partnering for a climb.keith_henderson@bresnan.net

By Adam Tanenbaum
Aug 27, 2011

Anyone interested in climbing the Grand Teton? I have equipment and am flexible.

Contact me at adamstanenbaum@gmail.com

Adam Tanenbaum

By Toby
From: Jackson, WY
Apr 28, 2012

There is a new guidebook that just went to press from Aaron Gams. It looks awesome and has 80 something routes, 14 of them new routes. Should be out mid May.

By Jeff House
From: yellow stone national park
May 17, 2012

Toby any word on the new book. Just moved to the area (yellow stone) looking to pick up most recent/ helpful guide.
Thank You
Jeff.

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Grand Teton National Park

Description

Getting There

Nearby Climbing

Resources

Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch

The Classics