3 excellent pitches make this a perfect intro to fremont canyon multi-pitch routes. To find this route, rap to the bottom of the canyon (we used the anchors for "Hang on loosely" and left a fixed line to retrieve later). Once at the bottom of the canyon, walk to your left past several climbs until you reach a beautiful looking dihedral. This is the first pitch to "Dopes on punk" The Slab route starts up the broken crack 30 feet to the left of it. Pitch 1-Head up fingercrack and face for 80 feet, then traverse right to fingercrack. Head up to overhang, traverse right underneath to bolted anchors. 160 feet-5.9 Pitch 2-Head up through overhang and continue up crack until you can undercling/traverse left into crack system. Head up the dihedral to large ledge with bolts. 150 feet-5.10a Pitch 3-Head straight up dihedral "Blood and guts." 50 feet-5.10c
Protection
Standard rack (doubles to #2 camalot) with extra small nuts and rp's for third pitch.
This route goes at 5.10a if you move left from the top the second pitch belay station along the ledge to another set of bolts and up and out on 5.5. Poor communtication on second pitch because of river noise and belaying under roof, figure out some signals. Bring some small finger size pieces for the first pitch (.3,.4 BD size) This route a must do for Fremont Canyon!
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